Kiipeily

Kiipeämään Thaimaan Tonsaille vai Laosin Thakhekiin?

Julkaistu: 07.12.2015

Tehtävä on mahdoton, mutta yritän silti. Mennäkö kiipeämään Tonsaille Thaimaahan vai Laosin Thakhekiin? Itse en osannut päättää, ja lopulta päädyin molempiin. Seuraa lista plussista ja miinuksista.

Greidit

Suuri ero Tonsain ja Thakhekin välillä on se, että Tonsailla ei käytännössä ole viitosen reittejä. Greidit alkavat kuutosesta, mikä tarkoittaa monille kaltaisilleni vähemmän kiivenneille menemistä reilusti oman mukavuusalueen ulkopuolelle. Toisaalta, se on hyvä keino siirtyä viitosen ja kuutosen haamurajan yli: itse huomasin Tonsailla roikkuvani puolessa välissä 6c-reittiä, koska se sattui olemaan ainoa joka kyseisellä spotilla oli vapaana. Jos joku olisi neljä viikkoa sitten väittänyt niin tapahtuvan, olisin pitänyt sitä hyvänä vitsinä. Tässä kiteytyykin kiipeilyn olennaisin juju: älä tuijota greidejä vaan kiipeä, kokeile, tipu. Muuten et koskaan pääse ylös.

Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla
Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla

Thakhekissa viitosen reittejä löytyy niin paljon, että samaa reittiä ei tarvi kahdeksan päivän aikana kiivetä kahdesti. Jos haluaa tehdä liidikurssin, harjoittelu on huomattavasti mukavampaa Thakhekin reiteillä. Tilaa spoteilla on myös enemmän, mikä tuo kiipeilyyn tietynlaista rauhaa.

laos--2

Vaaleaa, pyöristynyttä kalkkikiveä Tonsailla

Kivi

Sekä Tonsailla että Thakhekissa kivi on kalkkikiveä, monimuotoisia tuffeja, upeita muotoja, ihania otteita. Thakhekissa kivi on todella terävää – totesin jollekin, että kiipeäminen siellä on sama kuin tarttuisi joka otteella siiliin. Kolmen päivän jälkeen melkein jokainen sormeni oli teipattu.  Thakhekissa syy kiven terävyyteen ovat kuulemma happosateet, mistä syystä kivi on siedettävää noin 7 metriin asti, mutta siitä ylöspäin äärimmäisen terävää.

Photo 10.11.2015 13.45.12

”Dude, I think you need a rest day”, totesi kanadalainen kaverini minulle. Sormet kolmen päivän jälkeen Thakhekissa.

Tonsailla kaikki kuutosen reitit, sekä monet seiskat, ovat kuluneita, pyöristyneitä sekä kiiltäviä. Sormet kiittävät, mutta sanomattakin on selvää, että se tekee reiteistä vaikeampia.

Volyymi

Sekä Thakhekissä että Tonsailla on todella paljon reittejä, molemmissa yli sata. Thakhekissä niitä on suhteessa väkimäärään huomattavasti enemmän.

Reittien pituus vaihtelee. Korkein yhden pitchin reittini taisi Thakhekissa olla 31 metriä. Tonsailla ehdin kiivetä ainoastan yhden päivän ennen kuin loukkasin jalkani, joten siellä jäin matalammalle. Keskimäärin reitit ovat 18-30 metrin välillä – niin että 60 metrisellä köydellä pärjäsi hyvin.

Thakhek route frequency

6-topo_route-frequency

Tonsain ja Railayn kartta (mustat ovat crageja):

 

Sää

+ 30C. Kuuma. Kosteaa. En voinut kuvitella, että kiipeilykamppeet voivat haista näin pahalle. Kaikki on hiestä läpimärkää: kengät, valjaat, vaatteet. Eikä mikään kuiva.

Thakhekin Green Climbers Home on auki lokakuusta huhti-toukokuuhun. Sadekaudeksi se sulkee ovensa, sillä koko alue muuttuu järveksi – siitä syystä kaikki rakennukset Thakhekissa seisovat paaluilla. Marraskuun alussa keli oli kuiva.

Tonsailla sadekauden pitäisi yleensä loppua loka-marraskuun vaihteessa, mutta ainakin tänä vuonna marraskuun kolmen viimeisen viikon aikana Krabilla satoi lähes joka päivä. Useimmiten sateet olivat lyhyitä kuuroja. Kalliot kuivavat nopeasti niiden jälkeen.

Ötökät

Thakhekissa on enemmän itikoita kuin Tonsailla. Kiipeilyspotit ovat aika pusikkoisia, mistä johtuen ötökät viihtyvät siellä. Laosissa on myös dengue-kuumetta, jota levittävät erityisesti päiväsaikaan liikkuvat itikat, minkä takia niiltä suojautumiseen kannattaa kiinnittää huomiota. Laosissa on myös malariaa, mutta ilmeisesti vähän. Sitä kai levittävät pääosin pimeällä liikkuvat itikat.

Thaimaassa esiintyy myös dengue-kuumetta. Rannalla sijaitsevat kiipeilyspotit ovat siitä hyviä, että tuuli karkoittaa ötökät. Malariariski on käsittääkseni hyvin pieni.

Molemmissa paikoissa seinillä on ampiaispesiä, hämähäkkejä ja muurahaisia. Ilmeisesti käärmeitäkin (minä en nähnyt yhtään). Tonsailla bungalowissani hengasi myös valtava torakka. Itselläni oli mukana kyypakkaus (kortisonitabletteja), antihistamiinia sekä aloe veraa tai muuta puremiin tepsivää.

Meininki

Thakhek ja Tonsai eivät voisi olla paikkoina vähempää toistensa kaltaisia. Thakhek sijaitsee Laosissa melko kaukana mistään, mikä tarkoittaa, että kaikki sinne eksyvät haluavat kiivetä. Paljon. Green Climbers Home on ainoa mahdollinen majoitus. He pyörittävät kahta leiriä, joista ”ykkönen” on vanhempi ja kauempana ohikulkevasta tiestä, ”kakkonen” puolestaan uudempi. Thakhekissä kaikki kokoontuvat iltaisin syömään samaan – ainoaan – ravintolaan, joten tuntuu melkein, kuin kaikki siellä olisivat samaa perhettä. Thakhek on sisämaassa, mutta Green Climbers Homen luona on joki, jossa voi käydä uimassa.

Thakhekin ykkösleiri

 

Tonsai on paikkana isompi, ja siellä näkee myös paljon matkailijoita, jotka eivät ole kiipeämässä. Tonsai sijaitsee Krabilla ja osa kiipeilyreiteistä lähtee suoraan rannalta, siten että niitä ei välttämättä nousuveden aikana voi edes kiivetä. Ranta- ja kiipeilyloman voi helposti yhdistää.

laos-2108

Kiipeilyä rantahiekassa Tonsailla

Ehkä samasta syystä, Tonsailla kiipeily on verkkaisempaa. Porukkaa valuu kiipeilypaikoille pitkin päivää – siinä missä Thakhekissä seinällä ollaan viimeistään yhdeksän jälkeen.

Jos haikailee yöelämän ja baarien perään, Tonsai on ehdottomasti parempi vaihtoehto. Ruoka- ja yöpymisvaihtoehtoja löytyy laajemmalla skaalalla kuin Thakhekissa. Suurin osa majoitteista on bungaloweja, mutta niiden taso vaihtelee. Halvemman saa 200 bahtilla, kalliimmista saa pulittaa liki 1000 bahtia. Lisäksi Tonsain rannalle rakennetaan parhaillaan suurta resorttia, joka avautuessaan muuttanee koko rannan sielunelämää.

Auringonlasku Tonsain rannalla

 

laos-2128

Bungaloweja Tonsailla

Valitsisin Laosin

Jos minun pitäisi nyt valita, lähtisin Laosiin. Syyt: siellä on enemmän kiivettävää viitosen ja kuutosen kiipeilijälle. Se on paikkana aidompi – jos niin nyt saa sanoa – ja siellä tapaa ainoastaan ihmisiä, jotka ovat yhtä innoissaan kiipeilystä kuin minä itse. Ei ole mitään muuta tekemistä kuin nukkua, syödä ja kiivetä.

laos-0928

Thakhekin ykkösleirin dormitory (mikä se on suomeksi?)

Mustat hevoset: Yangshuo

Tonsai ja Thakhek eivät tietenkään ole Aasian ainoita kiipeilykohteita. Thaimaassa kova sisämaan vaihtoehto on Chiang Mai, ja Laosin puolella yöelämän ystävät voivat suunnata Vang Viengiin. Oma seuraava kohteeni on mitä luultavimmin Kiinan Yangshuo Hong Kongista luoteeseen. En ole käynyt koskaan Kiinassa, joten matkaan voi mukavasti yhdistää myös uusia seikkailuja. Eritoten, kun useita vuosia sitten tein itselleni pyhän lupauksen: jos ja kun menen ikinä Kiinaan, sinne on mentävä junalla.

 

Kuvia:

laos-0965-2

Maisemia seinältä Thakhekissa

DCIM105GOPRO

Tonsai on mantereella, mutta sinne on kuljettava veneellä. Samalla veneellä pääsee myös Railayn rannalle.

 

laos-1856

Sisämaa vai rantakohde? Rantakohteessa on puolensa.

laos-2041

Kiipeilyä Tonsailla

Thakhekin ykkösleiri myöhään illalla.

 

Kiipeilyä Thakhekin luolassa.

 

Thakhekin ykkösleirissä aikaisin aamulla.

 

DCIM103GOPRO

Tonsailla sateli iltapäivisin, mutta monet reitit ovat sen verran negatiivisia, että se ei haittaa. Tässä kuvassa minä en tosin enää kiipeillyt.

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