Matkat

Miksi yksin, miksi Venäjälle?

Julkaistu: 28.5.2016

27.5. Juna Moskova – Nizhny Novgorod

Juna kolisee kiskoilla. Istun tavallisella istumaosastolla, sillä matka Moskovasta ensimmäiseen kohteeseeni, Volgan varrella sijaitsevaan Nizhny Novgorodiin kestää vain neljä tuntia. Vielä tässä vaiheessa maisema ei ole muuttunut nimeksikään: pientareilla kasvaa sikin sokin koivuja, pihlajia, vuohenputkea, pusikkoa. On absurdi ajatus, että nämä kiskot vievät lopulta Tyynenmeren rantaan, tuhansien kilometrien päähän. Huomaakohan maiseman muuttumista edes, kun se tapahtuu pikkuhiljaa?

Miksi matkustan yksin?

Yksin matkustaessa aistit toimivat herkemmin. Koen eri paikkojen fiilikset sekä kohtaamani ihmiset vahvemmin. Toisaalta voin uppoutua omiin ajatuksiini tunneiksi, jäädä ihmettelemään kaupungin vilinää penkille, nähdä tai olla näkemättä nähtävyyksiä. Vapauden fiilis on suunnaton ja sellainen, jollaista ei seurassa matkustaessa voi kokea.

Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla
Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla

Yksin matkustaminen ei siis ole minulle joutumista vaan valinta. Kuulostaako se itsekkäältä? Ehkä vähän. Itsekästä se on ainakin siinä mielessä, että tiedän aiheuttavani läheisille ylimääräistä huolta. Siitä syystä lähteminen matkaan on minulle yleensä vaikeaa ja stressaavaa, kun näen vaikkapa äidin ja isoäidin silmistä miten he toivovat, että viime hetkellä muuttaisin mieleni. Ennen tätä matkaa huoleen yhtyi myös avopuolisoni, joka yleensä lähettää minut hyvillä mielin matkaan (saapa kerrankin vallata meidän pikkuruisen sohvan kokonaan).

Kun lähimmäiset pelkäävät, käy helposti niin, että heidän peloistaan tulee minunkin pelkojani. Mitä vanhemmaksi tulen, sitä paremmin olen oppinut erittelemään nämä kaksi asiaa ja pitämään kiinni omasta arviontikyvystäni. Mutta usein matkani jännittävät minua itseänikin hieman. Ja silloin lähimmäisteni pelko kasvattaa helposti omaani (pelossa on kovin mielenkiintoinen sosiaalinen aspekti). Jos haluan silti lähteä, on vain ummistettava korvat ja kuunneltava niitä, jotka eivät huolehdi. Ja lopulta, aina kun pääsen matkaan, huolet kaikkoavat. Olen omillani, vastuussa vain itselleni.

”Tämä on se maa, jota te pelkäätte niin helvetisti”

Matkakohteeni oli tällä kertaa epäilemättä se, joka herätti erityistä huolta.  Myös minussa itsessäni. Kovin moni meistä ei tiedä paljoa Venäjästä. Se on edelleen suuri musta aukko, pelottava itänaapuri, jossa puhutaan omituista kieltä. Puhutko venäjää, kysytään aina kun joku on lähdössä sinne. En puhu. Enkä muuten puhu espanjaa, italiaa, egyptiä, hindiä, kiinaa, japania enkä suurinta osaa niiden maiden kielistä jossa olen matkustanut. Jostain syystä vain Venäjällä sillä on väliä.

Lähtemistä helpotti seikka, johon pyrin aina palaamaan, kun alkaa jännittää: luottamukseni ihmisiin. Piirrettiin valtioiden rajat miten tahansa, suuri osa maailman tavallisista ihmisistä ei tahdo toisilleen pahaa, päinvastoin. Ne kerrat, kun olen pulmatilanteessa saanut vilpitöntä apua voittavat määrässä moninkertaisesti ne hetket, kun ollut syytä epäillä jonkun aikeita. Uskon, että tämä pätee myös Venäjällä.

Juuri äsken lukemastani Ville Haapasalon haastattelusta jäi mieleen seuraava pätkä: ”Idea niihin ohjelmiin lähti siitä, että mua ärsytti, kun Venäjästä puhuttiin vain ja ainoastaan pahaa. Venäjällä on paljon huonoa, mutta myös paljon hyvää, hyviä ihmisiä. Mä halusin näyttää, mitä ihmisille Venäjällä tapahtuu, mitä ne tekee, mitä ne syö ja juo. — Ajattelin, että mennään nyt vain Venäjän halki ja näytetään, mitä siellä on, tämä on se maa mitä te pelkäätte niin helvetisti. Siellä ihmiset ajaa mopolla, käy diskossa ja kalassa ja tekee samoja asioita, mitä muuallakin maailmassa tehdään.” Lähde: Ville Haapasalo, Kauko Röyhkä ja Juha Metso: Ville Haapasalon 2000-luku Venäjällä

Edellisestä Pietarin reissusta on vierähtänyt viisi vuotta ja Moskovan railakkaasta opiskelijamatkasta jo vuosikymmen. Yksi asia naapurimaassa ei ole muuttunut: maailman paras pikaruokaketju, Kartoshka! Uuniperuna muhkealla voinapilla, johon saa valita haluamansa täytteet (esim sienisalaattia, graavilohta, napolin salaattia…) gluteeniton tietysti!

Jouduin noukkimaan etukäteen venäläiseltä matkatoimistoltani tilaaman Irkutsk – Ulan Batoor – junalipun kaupungin laitamilla heti aamupäivällä kun saavuin. Helteisessä Moskovassa ja ruuhkaisessa metrossa sukkulointi rinkan kanssa oli taattua hupia. Vinkki: siellä pärjää ihan mainiosti ilman Venäjän taitoa, mutta kyrillisten aakkosten osaaminen helpottaa tosi paljon esim googlen reittiohjeiden seuraamista. Asemien nimiä ei ole kirjoitettu meikäläisellä litteroinnilla ollenkaan.

Moskovan Kurskaya-asemalla oli hetki aikaa odotella junan lähtöä Nihzny Novgorodiin. Ja lukea kirjaa. Olen ollut vuorokauden matkalla, ja jo nyt on nähtävissä, että olen täysin aliarvioinut kindleen lisäämieni kirjojen määrän.

Junaa odotellessa.

Matkakirjastossa nyt

Kesä ilman miehiäKesä ilman miehiä by Siri Hustvedt
My rating: 4 of 5 stars

Päähenkilö Mian ajatukset poukkoilevat kuin omani. Samaistuin.

View all my reviews

”Et muuten tätäkään usko…” – Ville Haapasalon 2000-luku Venäjällä by Ville Haapasalo

My rating: 3 of 5 stars

En uskonut edellistäkään, enkä kyllä usko tätäkään. Mutta sopii kyllä hyvin teemaan.

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