Matkat

Zhangjiajien kansallispuiston kivipilarimetsä on kuin fantasiamaailmasta

Julkaistu: 26.7.2016

Pitkiä, korkeita pilareita. Luonnon rakentamia kivisiltoja ja kapeita penkereitä. Köysirata ylös kulki niiden lomassa lähes pujotellen. Matka Zhangjiajien kansallispuistoon oli ollut jälleen täynnä seikkailuja, mutta kun nämä maisemat avautuvat silmien edessä, en jaksanut edes muistaa menneitä hankaluuksia.

Zhangjiajien kansallispuisto on yksi niistä Kiinan paikoista, joiden olemassaolosta en edes tiennyt, niin noloa kuin se myöntäminen onkin. Se on keskikokoinen kansallispuisto, jota kutsutaan myös kivimetsäksi. Siksi, että alueella on yli 3000 hiekkakivistä kapeaa pylvästä ja huippua. Tiet, joet ja polut kiertelevät kivipilareiden välissä sekä niiden päällä. Sanotaan, että se on inspiroinut Avatar-elokuvan maisemia.

Puiston sisällä kulkee ilmaisia busseja. Ylhäällä on ravintoloita ja majoituspalveluita, vaikka suuri osa runsaslukuisista vierailijoista käy puistossa päiväseltään.

Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla
Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla

Itse päätin rohkeasti lähteä puistoon rinkka selässä. Kiinalaiset kaupungit eivät ole ollenkaan minun juttuni, ja halusin mielummin viettää aikani niiden ulkopuolella, vaikka se meinaisikin hikistä kamojen roudausta. Päädyin parin tunnin minibussin takapenkillä köröttelyn jälkeen puiston läntiselle portille. Tarkoitukseni oli päästä pohjoiselle portille, mutta se on ilmeisesti suljettu.

Kabiinissa kesät talvet, kelpaa!

Apinaakin taisi helle jo hieman väsyttää.

Päästyäni puistoon ostin hissilipun kabiiniin joka vei minut vuoren päälle. Sieltä hyppäsin ilmaiseen bussiin, ja ihme ja kumma, osasin jäädä pois oikealla pysäkillä. Kirjauduin homeelta haisevaan, likaiseen mutta ihan sympaattiseen hostelliin. Siellä ei ollut kunnollista ilmastointia, ja ilmankosteus oli viidakkoisen kasvillisuuden keskellä jotain aivan älytöntä. Päätin olla vaihtamatta vaatteita, koska ne lähmääntyisivät kuitenkin hetkessä.

Maisemat hostellin takaa. Vasemmalla näkyy kivisilta, joka ilmeisesti on maailman korkein laatuaan.

Kiertelin iltapäivän hostellin läheisyydessä. Maisemat olivat mielettömät, mutta niin oli myös lauantaipäivän ruuhka. Kiinalaiset turistit tungeksivat puiston päänähtävyyden, korkean hiekkakivisillan ympärillä kulkevilla poluilla. Olihan se hieno, mutta nautin paljon enemmän seuraavan päivän retkestämme, jonka teimme tapaamani toisen soolomatkaajan Mincan kanssa puiston rauhallisemmalla alueella. Bussipysäkkien läheisyydestä päästyä ryysis helpotti heti. Siinä kuumuudessa kukaan muu hullu paitsi me ei ollut liikenteessä jalan.

Auringonnousu viiden jälkeen.

Kivipilareita oli aivan joka puolella.

Iltapäivällä pysähdyimme hiljaisen kylän ravintolaan syömään lounasta. Paistettua tofua, nam! Riisi tuotiin isossa puukiulussa.

Melko korkealla ollaan!

Joko huimaa?

Teimme vielä muutaman tunnin lenkin auringonlaskun aikaan, ja maisemat olivat henkeäsalpaavat. Seuraavana aamuna herätyskello soi aikaisin, ja ostimme liput ulkoilmahissiin, joka on ilmeisesti korkein maailmassa. Se vei meidät pilarilaakson pohjalle. Siellä virtasi joki, jota reunustavaa polkua pitkin pääsi kolmessa tunnissa puiston pääportille.

Aamuvarhaisella merkityillä helppokulkuisilla reiteillä ei ollut ruuhkaa.

Joki höyrysi auringonsäteiden lämmittäessä sitä yön jälkeen.

Kävelimme hiljaisessa aamussa eteenpäin. Joki höyrysi vasta heräilevän auringon viistossa valossa. Aivan kuin olisin ollut toisessa maailmassa. En edes muistanut aiemmin kovin painavalta tuntunutta rinkkaa. Jälleen kerran, kaikki epätoivon hetket ja kyyneleet pyyhkiytyivät pois mielestä. Tämä oli kaiken vaivan arvoista.

 

Yhteistyössä: Halti, Suunto, One Gear Oy

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