Vaellukset

Autiot tuvat, jäätyneet tunturit

Julkaistu: 30.10.2015

Lokakuussa Kiilopäällä on hiljaista. Tunturikeskus on kiinni. Urho Kekkosen kansallispuiston tuvat ovat autioita, ja harvat vaeltajat katselevat toisiaan kysyvästi: tekin täällä, miksi ihmeessä.

Luonto odottaa, me odotamme, sillä lumi on jo myöhässä. Aurinko raahautuu vaivoin taivaanrannan yläpuolelle ja paistaa viistosti puiden paljaitten oksien läpi. Joinain päivinä kolea sumu hävittää maisemat näkyvistä, ja seuraavana päivänä pakkanen liimaa vesipisarat kiinni varvikkoon. Tunturit jäätyvät.

Kaikki on henkeäsalpaavan kaunista.

Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla
Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla

Mitä ylemmäs kiipeää, sitä epätodellisemmaksi maisema käy.

-Tuntuu siltä, että ihmisen ei pitäisi olla täällä, kiteytti tapaamamme vaeltaja oudon tunteen.

Viimein kuudentena yönä talvi saapuu. Nukumme laavulla ja aamulla silmien edessä aukeaa valkoinen maisema. Ihanaa, valkoista puuterilunta. En tiedä miksi, mutta ymmärrän paremmin tätä maisemaa kuin sitä edellistä.

Tunturissa viima nakertaa poskia, mutta porot eivät välitä. Ne ovat kiivenneet nauttimaan viimeisistä auringonsäteistä ennen kaamosaikaa.

Lokakuun lopun seitsemän päivän vaellus Urho Kekkosen kansallispuistossa Inarissa oli yksi hienoimmista, joita olen tehnyt. Hiljaisen, talvea odottavan luonnon ääressä on vaikea olla olematta onnellinen.

Kuva: Sampsa Sulonen

Kuvassa olen Kotakönkäällä, päivää ennen lumen tuloa.

Ystäväni lähti kiipeämään Sokostille, minä pelkäsin liikaa jäisiä kiviä. Kiersin Sokostin eteläpuolen kurun kautta ja kävelin soiden läpi takaisin Luirojärvelle. Jäinen tihkusade kuorrutti vaatteet, repun ja hiukset. Näkyvyys sumussa ei ollut hääppöinen. Yksin keskellä erämaata suunnistaessa oli muistutettava itseään useaan otteeseen, että osaan kyllä tämän. Silti jokaisen risahduksen jälkeen varmistin selkäni takaa, ettei siellä ollut karhua. Tai lohikäärmettä. Mistä sitä ikinä tietää.

Kuva: Sampsa Sulonen

Kävelimme yhteensä noin 115 kilometriä. Ensimmäinen leiripaikka oli Suomunruoktussa. Sen jälkeen kävimme Sokostin takana Muorrakkavaarassa ja tulimme sieltä jälleen Luirojärven kautta takaisin Suomujoen laaksoon. Lopuksi kävelimme tuntureiden yli Kiilopäälle. Kuin huomaamatta reissusta tuli myös yksi pisimmistä vaelluksistani, vaikka olin ajatuksissani ollut lähdössä ”muutaman päivän metsäretkelle”.

Kuva: Sampsa Sulonen

Olin aivan täysin unohtanut että UKK-puistossa on paljon jokia ja vähän siltoja. Kaiken kaikkiaan taisin lähteä tälle ”muutaman päivän metsäretkelle” hieman takki auki, sillä ruoatkin loppuivat toiseksi viimeisenä päivänä, aamuksi jäi vain pieni puuroannos. Sille on helppo vitsailla jälkikäteen, mutta ihan tosissaan erämaata, vaikka kuinka tuttua sellaista, ei kannata koskaan aliarvioida.

Kuva: Sampsa Sulonen

Vaelluksen viimeisen päivän aamuna odotti ihana yllätys: maassa oli viiden sentin lumipeite. Heräsimme laavulta auringon noustessa tähtikirkkaalle taivaalle. Kuvassa keitän aamupuuroa nuotiolla. Maistui aika hyvältä.

****

Ajankohta: 21.10.-27.10.2015

Paikka: Urho Kekkosen kansallispuisto (lähtö ja paluu Kiilopää)

Reitti:

Linkki gpx-tiedostoon (jonka voi viedä esim rastit.fi-palveluun ja tarkastella reittiä maastokartalta lähemmin).

Avainsanat:
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