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Neljän päivän pyöräseikkailu Ulan Batorista

Julkaistu: 29.6.2016

Palattuamme Ulan Batoriin selvittelimme, mitä kiinnostavaa loppumatkalla voisi tehdä. Vaeltamiskiintiö oli täynnä eikä kumpikaan meistä ole hevosihmisiä. Päätimme lähteä pyöräretkelle Ulan Batorin ulkopuolella sijaitsevaan Tereljin kansallispuistoon.

Pyörävuokraamon nimi oli ehkä The Cycling World. Tai sitten Trek.

Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla
Mainos, sisältö jatkuu alla

Löysimme pyörävuokraamon Xaisanista, Ulan Batorin keskustan eteläreunalta. Pyöräkauppa oli hyvin varusteltu, ja belgialainen omistaja vinkkasi meille monia reittejä. Kaikki pyörät ovat maastopyöriä, koska maantiet ovat Mongoliassa olemattomia. Juttelimme pitkän tovin belgialaisen kanssa. Kävi ilmi, että pyöräkauppa oli samalla myös Belgian kunniakonsulaatti ja farkuissaan maastopyörien keskellä pyörivä mies entinen rahoitusalan ja Venäjän ammattilainen joka oli jäänyt Mongoliaan 11 vuotta sitten ja vaihtanut sittemmin alaa.

Aamuna, jolloin meidän piti lähteä pyöräretkelle, satoi aivan kaatamalla. Kävimme vähän väliä parvekkeella tarkastamassa tilannetta mutta se näytti toivottomalta. Oli siirrettävä lähtöä. Seuraavana aamunakin taivas oli harmaa, mutta päätimme silti lähteä matkaan. Tuul-joen pohjoispuoleisen reitin piti johtaa päivässä kansallispuistoon (matkaa noin 50 kilometriä).

Homma ei mennyt ihan putkeen. Kaaduin pyörällä ensimmäistä kertaa kanttikiveen lähes heti lähdettyämme ajamaan. Selässä oli 15 kilon rinkka (meillä oli molemmilla taas kuusi litraa vettä), pakkarilla reilu 5 kiloa ja alla pyörä joka tuntui aivan käsittämättömän raskaalta hallita. Puhumattakaan Ulan batorin 30 senttisistä kanttareista! Onneksi selvisin mustelmilla. Senkään jälkeen ajamisesta ei meinannut tulla mitään. Ajoasento oli huono, pyörä vaappui ja satula hiersi ekoista metreistä lähtien järjettömän paljon. Ensimmäiset 30 kilometriä yritimme päästä vain kaupungista ulos. Pakokaasua, reikäisiä tien reunoja, kaahaavia autoja, tööttääviä rekkoja. Hermoni olivat riekaleina ja pysähdyin varmaan viiden kilometrin välein itkemään parit epätoivon kyyneleet.

Päästyämme viimein ulos kaupungista alkoi sataa. Joen vierellä kulkevat tiet olivat paikoin täysin veden alla, paikoin puolen sentin mutakerroksen alla. Illansuussa saavuimme Tuul-joen mutkaan, missä olisi pitänyt ylittää yksi joen haaroista. Emme olleet henkisesti valmiita lähtemään ylitysseikkailulle, ja sade tuntui yltyvän, joten pystytimme teltan joen viereen ja kömmimme sisään kuutelemaan pisaroiden ropinaa.

En tiennytkään, että omistan pikkuruisen Mitsubishi Coltini lisäksi toisen tilaihmeen: Hillberg Nallo 2Gt – eteiseen mahtuu muun muassa kaksi maastopyörää!

Emme ottaneet keitintä mukaan tälle reissulle, sillä tulentekotarpeita piti olla yllin kyllin. Kaatosateessa ei kummankaan tehnyt mieli alkaa partioharjoituksiin, joten söimme retkiruoat kylminä. Blå Bandin pusseissa itse asiassa lukee, että ne voi tarvittaessa valmistaa kylmään veteen. Vaikutusaika on vain pidempi. Ei se nyt hyvää ole, mutta ruokaa.

Ekan yön telttapaikka ja lehmälauma.

Aamulla kasasimme märistä risuista pikkunuotion. Kuivat sytykkeet unohtui tietysti ottaa mukaan.

Leiri levällään. Mitenkäs se pipo on taas valahtanut silmille?

Pisaroiden ropina teltan kattoon jatkui koko yön. Aamulla herätessämme aurinkoi paistoi – mutta joen rannalla odotti ikävä yllätys: veden pinta oli noussut ainakin puoli metriä! Illalla näkemämme ylityspaikan kohdalla keskellä jokea nökötti jumiin jäänyt Mitsibishin pakettiauto, vettä oli melkein sen sivupeileihin saakka.

Valtteri ylittämässä tulvivaa jokea.

Ripustelimme märät vaatteemme puskiin kuivumaan ja ihmettelimme aamupuuroveden kiehuessa, että mitäs nyt tehdään. Päätimme yrittää yli, ja näimme onneksi yhden henkilön tulevan yli juuri kun saavuimme rantaan. Minä kuitenkin ilmeisesti astuin hieman reitistä sivuun, ja pari metriä ennen vastarantaa pohja katosi jalkojen alta ja jäin rinkan ja pyörän varaan kellumaan. Epätoivoisesti koitin pitää olkahihnassa kiinni olevaa kameraa pinnan päällä, ohjata pyörää ja päästä samalla eteenpäin. Kirosin tyhmyyttäni etten ollut jaksanut laittaa kameraa suojaan. Onneksi tärkeimmät, eli makuupussi, merinohuppari ja vaihtotrikoot säilyivät kuivina. Vesishokin saanut puhelinkin lähti myöhemmin käyntiin.

Pääsimme siis yli! Emme tienneet, että edessä olisi vielä seitsemän samanlaista ylitystä, joista neljä turhaa vain sen takia, että pyöräilimme vahingossa umpikujaan, jokisuiston saarekkeelle. Mongoliassa on tyypillistä, että tiet katkeavat jokiin, tai siis, paikkoihin joista ajetaan joen läpi. Paikalliset pyrkivät henkilöautollakin yli sellaisista paikoista, joihin suomalainen ei uskalla edes täysverisellä maasturilla. Joissain maastureissa on sentään moottorin ilmanottoputki katon korkeudella.

Teitä pitkin on siis mahdoton suunnistaa. Niitä menee joka suuntaan, ne loppuvat kesken tai päättyvät kalliolouhikkoon. Polkuja koskee sama: juuri kun luulet, että tämä polku ei enää voi olla minkään elävän olennon kulkureitti, näet keskellä jyrkkää sorarinnettä lehmänkakkaa tai moottoripyörän jäljen.

Olen ajanut maastopyörällä kolme kertaa elämässäni. Ulan Batorin tulvivat ja kiviset polut oli hyvä paikka harjoitella lajia. 

Onneksi välillä oli vähän tasaisempaa.

Valtteri etsimässä ylityspaikkaa. Monista paikoista olisi päässyt kyllä ilman pyörää, mutta virta tarttuu aika kovasti pyörään heti jos vesi on yli polven, joten paikoissa riitti haeskelua. Ei menty tästä. 

Tästä mentiin. Minä ylittämässä tokan päivän viimeistä jokea.

Umpikuja oli onneksi ihan hieno leiripaikka.

Seuraavan yön vietimme jokisuiston saarekkeella huomattuamme päätyneemme umpikujaan. Sade oli sentään lakannut – päivällä olimme joutuneet pystyttämään teltan vain parin tunnon kuuron ajaksi. Mutta: Emme olleet vieläkään kansallispuistossa, ja joutuisimme aloittamaan seuraavan aamun ylittämällä kaksi jokea takaisinpäin. Emme antaneet sen masentaa. Keittelimme ajopuista kootuilla nuotiotarpeilla illallista ja kuuntelimme käen kukkumista. Mongoliassa on valtavasti käkiä, niin Altailla kuin täällä idempänäkin. Lähes jokaista telttailtaa reissulla säesti kotoinen käki.

Kolmantena päivänä ei itkettänyt enää kertaakaan. Aurinkokin paistoi!

Seuraavana päivänä pyöräily alkoi sujua. Vesilasti oli keventynyt ja aloin saada tuntumaa pyörään. Retken hauskimmat kilometrit sotkettiin vaihtelevaa polkua pitkin kansallispuistoon. Aurinko paistoi nyt jo pilvettömältä taivaalta.

Sateessa kastuneiden tavaroiden kuivaamista lomaresortissa.

Sitten vähän teetä.

Yhden päivän matkaan kului meiltä kaksi ja puoli päivää, mutta sitäkin hauskempaa oli kirjautua sisään jurttaresorttiin, käydä lämpimässä suihkussa ja tilata muhkeat ruoka-annokset länsimaiselta ruokalistalta. Me valitsimme opaskirjan mainostaman ravintolan perusteella Ayanchin Lodgen jurttakylän, emmekä joutuneet pettymään. Ilmaista tämä hupi ei todellakaan ole: jurtta maksoi yhdeltä yöltä 125 dollaria. Mutta sinne olisi mahtunut helposti neljä ihmistä

Tajusimme vasta resortin terassilla istuskellessamme, että oli juhannusaatto. Pari päivää Tuul-joen pusikossa oli pyyhkinyt mielestä kaiken muun paitsi suistosta ulos selvitytymisen.

Itse Tereljin kansallispuisto oli kaunis. Kansallispuisto-termi tässä yhteydessä hämää, sillä varsinkin puiston suosituimmat eteläosat ovat käytännssä lomaresorttikyliä, johon paikalliset tulevat viettämään viikonloppuja. Korkeimmat huiput yltävät vähän yli 2000 metrin, mutta korkeuserot eivät ole suuria kun puiston alemmatkin osat ovat noin 1400 metrissä. 

Maisemia Tereljistä.

Kiipesimme illan päätteeksi vielä läheiselle kukkulalle. Tässä vaiheessa pyöräretken koettelemukset alkoivat jo vähän naurattaa, ja viimeistään siinä vaiheessa kun seuraavana päivänä pyöräilimme alamäkeen 50 kilometriä keskellä kaoottista maantietä, totesimme että valintamme reitin kiertosuunnasta oli kuitenkin oikea – ylämäkeen sitä rekkasirkusta ei olisi jaksanut kukaan. Meillä kävi vain huono tuuri joen tulvimisen suhteen.

Taukopaikalla paluumatkalla.

Ulan Batorin kehäteiden liikenteessä pyöräily oli luultavasti vaarallisin asia, mitä olen koskaan tehnyt. Onneksi äiti ei tiennyt.

Paluumatkalla päästiin rullailemaan mukavasti alamäkeen. Nousut olivat heti alkumatkasta ja viimeiset 20 kilsaa losoteltiin rekkojen seasss alamäkeen.

Retken ekoina päivinä mietin, että tämänblogipostauksen otsikoksi tulee: ”Ei ainakaan näin” -pyöräretki. Toisin kuitenkin kävi, sillä retken kaksi viimeistä päivää olivat täynnä aurinkoa, mukavaa polkemista ja hyvää ruokaa.

 Aurinko laskee jurtan taakse. Jurttien ovet ovat kuulemma aina etelään, sillä yleensä pohjoisesta tuulee, ja etelästä tulee myös samalla eniten valoa.

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